"My face breaks out, and is super oily, but also I have these flaky dry patches but if I use moisturizer to soothe them I end of a greasy mess!"....Sound like you? YEAH! Then keep reading girl cause we are about to dig into the most common complaint I see from clients with acne oily prone skin.
So lets start by breaking down what is causing this. I am going to make a lucky guess here and say if you look at the ingredients on you facewash and other skincare products you use daily that they contain things like: Salicylic Acid (beta-hydroxy acid), Glycolic Acid (alfa hydroxy acid), salicylate, sodium salicylate, benzoyl peroxide, polyhydroxy acid, methanol, propanol, denatured alcohol, etc... honestly the list could go on forever. All of these are examples of ingredients used to treat breakouts in skin.
TIME OUT: I just want to pause and say...acids have their place in skincare and we will touch on that soon just hang tight.
Acids and alcohol exfoliate and strip the skin, which will dry out the epidermal layer. This is a good thing when treating a stubborn pustule breakout. However, this can be a bad thing if used on the daily. Here is my best attempt to explain this is writing, your skin needs a certain amount of oil, that is what protects it from the elements as well as helps keep our skin youthful, oily skin will always age slower than dry skin. On a scale of 1-10 (1 being very little oil) lets say the "normal" oil level is a 3/4. Oily Acne prone skin typically starts at a 6/7, enough to cause some congestion but not enough that you can blot it off with a tissue. Using a cleanser that is high in alcohol and acid will strip ALL the oil off your face, the normal and the excess. So now you are dry like the Sahara Desert. That's what you wanted? Cool right? Only cool until lunch time, this is where things get greasy!
We all know what an immune response is, but many don't realize how far that immune response goes. The immune systems main goal is to heal the body, so any time you take something away from the body the immune system kicks in to fix it. So you woke up and washed your face, stripping away all the oil on the surface. So now your poor little sebaceous glands (the things that make your oil) get a fun to do list from the immune system telling them to speed up oil production because the epidermal layer has none. So by lunch time your skin is not just producing the oil at your normal 6/7 level but more like a 8/9, over time it will be a solid 10. And you are a total grease ball, but in the long term as you continue through this revolving door you will start to notice these dry flaky patches because the acid and alcohol has stripped away that layer of dead skin to a point of irritation. You only have so many dead cells to exfoliate off the surface. A 30 year old person gets new skin cells every 45-60 days.
So know lets talk about what you can do about it...
The key to fixing this problem is to find BALANCE in your skin; you know like eating cake too much and your jeans don't fit but just a little and you feed your sweet tooth and still fit in a swimsuit! You need a daily cleanser that gives a good clean to rid your skin of the excess oil and dirt but doesn't strip the healthiness off your epidermal layer.
Like I mentioned acids have their place in skincare, just not daily. A good peel in studio with a professional is amazing for many things especially if you are at the beginning of your clear skin journey. Having a well formulated acid cleanser or mask for those 911 inflamed breakout moments is a wonderful idea. However, you do not need to treat a breakout that isn't happening. You need to maintain the clear results you currently have. If you haven't battled acne for a few months(or years) but are still using a harsh acne cleanser its time to find a better balance before you do real damage to your skin. Example: hyperpigmentation (or dark spot), premature aging, or rosacea and other overly sensitive skin conditions.
Breaking up with acids is hard, stopping cold turkey will never end well. It is a process to adjust too. We recommend using a skin care line that believes is a more natural approach to skincare, like our partner Dermaki Skincare "where nature meets science". This will eliminate the over use of acids and alcohols. Also working with a licensed esthetician will greatly change the level of success you have with divorcing your acid based products.
CHEERS TO CLEAR HEALTHY SKIN! YOU GOT THIS GIRL!
and our team is here to help.